by Bob Beranek
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One of the benefits of being a trainer is having the opportunity to observe and learn tips for using and operating both new and existing tools. I thought I would share some things that I have learned while teaching Auto Glass University.

  1. When the glass part is original equipment, and there are no factory installed gravity stops, assume there are guide pins inserted into the upper pinchweld. These will have to be separated from the interior glass surface to facilitate wire progression.
  2. Do you want an easy way to find the guide pins? Use the rearview mirror you just removed to see where the pins are located.  Then separate with a stiff sharpened putty knife or paddle blade.
  3. Try not to cut the cord for reuse. Every time the cord is cut, it is restricted to the size of the glass part it will fit.
    • Start the cord, and insert it around the glass edge. Do not cut it.
    • Make a loop with the cord, and insert it through the islet on the anchor cup bottom to top. Repeat using the same loop. Then insert the islet through the loop and pull.

 

 

    • This knot is very strong and will not give but will allow the knot to be released without cutting the cord. Thanks to Gilbert Gutierrez for the knot idea.
    • Mount the anchor cup to the outside glass surface leaving the cord reel hanging from the anchor cup. Cord will not chip the glass and cause premature fracture.
    • Once most of the glass is cut out, release the anchor cup. Lift the glass where it is separated from the bead and push the anchor and reel inside. Then remount on the inside surface and finish the cut out.
    • Once the glass is removed, the cord loop is released from the islet, and the cord knot is released allowing it to be reused without cutting it.
  1. Sometimes the only available way of mounting the operating cup prohibits the use of pads to protect the dash and inside moldings. If you are using cord rather than wire, you can use a plastic stick or even a gloved hand or finger to push the cord to the inside glass surface to protect the moldings and headliner. I would not suggest using your finger if wire is being used.  The wire can cut through your gloved hand.
  2. Are you having trouble threading your cord through the hole in the wire starter? Try using a needle threader you can find in a sewing supply store or department store. They are inexpensive and work well if you get one that is more substantial than the little aluminum one.

 

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6. The closer the wire or cord is to the glass, the better it cuts, and the safer the interior moldings are from being damaged. Push the protective pads and, thus, the wire/cord as close to the inside surface as possible.

7. Believe me, you DO NOT want to cut the VIN plate off. Make doubly sure that the wire/cord will clear the VIN plate when you get close to it. Take it slow and easy.

8. Speaking of slow and easy, when you cut the corners, take is slow around the radius. Pull and relax, pull and relax. This is where the wire/cord is stressed the most and where it will break most often. When the cuts are going easy, you can go as fast as you want. When it is tensing up, take it slower.

9. Threading the wire/cord is as simple as tucking the wire/cord under each corner and under each gravity stop. The straight away will take care of itself. You may want to make sure that if the cutting medium is wire, it doesn’t make contact with the roof paint. You may have to use tape to hold it under the glass edge at the top.

Comments (2)

  1. […] Today’s Blog: Technically Speaking – Wire-out Tips […]

  2. Rick Nelson said on 12-03-2018

    Filament can be spliced very easily and so length is not an issue nor is breakage compared to using wire.

    Only takes a minute or so to splice the line, it is similar to the Chinese finger torture toys we had as a kid on how the filament can be spliced and remains strong.

    Attempting to tied a broken filament is frustrating as the material is self-lubricating and tying knots are difficult and bulky. Special knots should be learned as you show here.

    You can splice a loop into the end of the line which is stronger and easier to use for your anchoring.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hW1pOuTBpvY

    All you need is a splicing needle, I recommend the DaHo LS0420 Hollow Spectra Needle Tool.

    Splicing two lengths together is very simple and fast and maintains the lines specified strengths.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=51A9QGPTNag

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