by Bob Beranek

Noise Complaints

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Posted by :Bob Beranek On : January 16, 2018

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I’m sure that many of you have noticed that there has been a higher number of noise complaints recently. Have you ever wondered why? The answer is exposed edge glass mounting. Since the popularity of exposed edge glass mounting came into being with the Saint Gobain’s Pre-Applied Adhesive System (PAAS), many other vehicle manufacturers have noticed the benefits of its design.

  • There are fewer parts to design and manufacturer;
  • Less labor costs to install the finishing moldings;
  • Without an over-glass molding there is less drag and better fuel economy; and
  • More aesthetically appealing.

There are also some pros and cons for the auto glass technician as well.

Pros

  • No moldings to take off so installation times are reduced;
  • No clips to be broken and replaced so costs are reduced.

Cons

  • Removal damage easily visible;
  • Bead application must be precise or cleanup is a problem;
  • Noise complaints increase.

Today, I want to address the noise complaint issue. Have you ever had a customer complain, “That ever since the glass was replaced, there is a noise they’ve never heard before?” I think we all have. The fact is that the noise is not new, it is just different.

All vehicles have noises manufactured in them the day we drive it off the lot. If the noise is such that we cannot tolerate them, we don’t buy the vehicle. However, if the sounds are minor, or don’t irritate us particularly, we will buy the vehicle and live with the noise. Eventually, we don’t hear it anymore because we get used to it, and, in our minds, it ceases to exist.

Then comes Otto’s Glass to replace the windshield and the gap between the exposed edge of the glass, and the wall of the pinchweld is slightly different than before. If it is a smaller gap, there is a higher pitched “whistle.” If it is a larger gap, there is an “air rush” sound. Either way, the sound is different not new. There is no such thing as zero sound.

Air has to go somewhere when it comes in contact with the vehicle. If it is forced between the glass and the body gap, the rush of air will create a noise. How that noise is heard depends on where it enters the gap, travels through the length of the gap and how it escapes. The only way to stop the noise complaint is to disrupt the air flow thus stopping the air from creating a rush or whistle.

Here are some actions you can take to reduce the noise complaints:

  • Add a moulding – Yes, it will change the look, but does the customer want a quiet ride or stylish looks? Sometimes you can’t have both. If you are a good salesman, you can sell them on a “J” moulding which will most definitely remove the noise issue, but it will also be the most noticeable to the customer. Or, you could suggest or install an underside moulding which will be far less noticeable but is not as fail safe as the addition of a “J” moulding. The underside moulding will divert the air causing the noise.
  • Measure and replicate the size of the gap – Use a shim or measuring device to note the size of the gap between the glass edge and the wall of the pinchweld. Then exactly replicate the gap upon setting the glass into the opening. Adjust where needed.
  • Disrupt the air flow by adding a strategic ball of adhesive – If the vehicle has “A” pillar moldings but has an exposed edge top, you should place a small ball of butyl tape or dollop of urethane under the side moldings and between the glass edge and the pinchweld wall. This will disrupt the flow of the air and eliminate air rush or an upper corner wind whistle.
  • Make sure the glass surface is slightly below the flush-point of the roof line – It is a little known fact that the glass should be slightly inset into the opening for exposed edge glass. This directive came from BMW many years ago for their vehicles. BMW even had a tool that looked like the shape of the state of Nebraska to measure the indentation. That tool should not be used to measure all vehicles because all vehicles have different roof configurations, but the glass should be slightly indented into the opening and not be flush to the roof line.

I hope these tips and ideas will help with your reduction of noise complaints. Just remember that the noise they hear is not new, just different.

A Look at Full-Strip Procedures

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Posted by :Bob Beranek On : September 15, 2016

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Last week we looked at tool options for trimming back the urethane bead to the level suggested by the adhesive manufactures (1/16th on an inch) when replacing a windshield. This week we’ll address the procedures that must be employed to make sure the glass is solidly bonded and the installation is leak-free.

If you use a razor blade style tool, the strip-out may not leave you with a 1/16-inch buffer. Used properly, it will usually take the bead right down to the painted surface, leaving only a trace of existing material. If the blade angle is too high, then the paint is damaged and more priming is necessary. However, if the tool is used to “shave” the urethane from the metal, scratches will be minimal but so will the existing bead. Is this wrong? You may think so if you are the one going back on a second or third installation. There is no easy way to get to the OE bead if some is not left behind from the first installation.

If you use a scraper tool like a chisel, then I would suggest to turn the chisel with the beveled side facing down to the metal. Using the tool in this way leaves a 1/16th-of-an-inch-of old urethane, strips off the majority of the rest and reduces the chance of damage to the metal. This requires a little more effort by the technician but it does leave behind the amount of existing urethane that is called for by the adhesive companies. It also makes it easier to reach the OE bead on the second or third replacement.

Any tool you use to strip the urethane must be sharp. If you have a razor blade tool, change the blade on every strip-out. If you have a utility blade style of tool, use one side of the blade for one vehicle and then the opposite side of the blade for the next. Chisel style blade tools must be kept sharp and honed between installations. I used to sharpen them on a grinding wheel or a wet sander every morning and then hone them before every install throughout the day.

09152016bobWhen using a long-handled utility knife to strip the bead, some technicians will hold the tool with two hands and strip the urethane. The problem with this method is that if there is a defect in the bond, such as paint delamination, the blade can skim over the defect and the problem will escape detection. If the technician starts the strip-out and then pulls and stretches the removed bead with one hand while he uses the tool with the other hand, a defect will show itself and the technician can then deal with the problem.

Once the adhesive is removed, the next step is to make sure the existing bead that is left behind is ready for the application of the new bead. DO NOT touch the freshly exposed bead if you can help it. If you must touch it, change your gloves from safety gloves to new nitrile gloves so you will not contaminate the existing bead. Check for some uniformity in the existing bead you are bonding to. If there are real high or low points, the glass could fracture upon setting. Next, check for any scratches or gaps in in the bonding area. If there are some present follow the adhesive company’s detailed instructions for primer application.

Lastly, check the old bead for “flaps” in the bonding area. What I mean by “flaps” are overlapping slivers of urethane laying on top of one another. They are very hard to see sometimes but they have to be eliminated. If a fresh bead of adhesive is put over a flap, then the seal will leak at that point and the bond compromised.

Master the strip-out and you will reduce your installations times by several minutes.

Tools for Stripping Existing Urethane

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Posted by :Bob Beranek On : September 8, 2016

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One of the most difficult skills a new technician needs to master is how to trim back the existing urethane to the proper point. The typical advice, used in the industry for decades, is to trim the existing bead to 1-2 mm or a 1/16 of an inch. Though we have all heard this phrase used frequently, most people don’t trim back the existing bead and then measure the thickness of the urethane left behind to make sure that it was exactly a 1/16th of an inch. If the bead is a 1/32 or 3/16 of an inch, is that wrong? No it is not.

The purpose of leaving some existing urethane is twofold. The most important reason is to discourage the technician from going too close to the painted metal and thus damaging the pinchweld and causing corrosion. The second reason is to remove most of the aged and possibly deteriorated urethane and to leave behind a perfect virgin bonding surface for the new urethane to adhere to. Both of these goals are important to the success of the bond and the protection of the vehicle, but the exact amount of the existing urethane to leave behind is not as important as the end result.

The bottom line is don’t damage the pinchweld, and be sure to remove most of the old bead. I frequently see new technicians struggle with this directive, prolonging the installation process or causing the quality of the installation to suffer.

In the next few of posts I will address the proper procedures for full strip-outs and the ramifications when the strip-out is done incorrectly. Today, I will address the tools available for this purpose.

There is a wide array of tools to perform the act of stripping the old urethane from the body. Some of these tools are commonly found in a hardware store for affordable prices. Others bring highly sophisticated designs that make the task easy and reduce the chance of damage. However, with practice and care, they all work fine. I have yet to stop a technician from using a tool they have success with. Yes, I do have my preferences, which usually are formed by the length of the learning curve but there are arguments for and against for every tool I’ve seen. Here is just a small list with my comments:

Razor Blade Scraper: These are inexpensive. It is a single-edged razor blade that can be changed often for little cost. Once learned, it is easy to use. The blade can be too wide for the average pinchweld. The tool can strip too close to the body and the blade is sharp and can easily cause damage until mastered.

Utility knife/Long-handled Utility, Olfa® Knife: These are relatively inexpensive. You must use the proper knife blades or the blades can snap. Some blades can be a little more expensive. It takes more practice to learn and master this method. The tool can damage headliners and interior garnish mouldings. It can also strip too close to the body. The blade is sharp and can easily cause damage until mastered.

Scrapers, Chisels, Putty Knives: These are relatively inexpensive. The blades need to be sharpened and kept honed for productive use. If used incorrectly, the blade can cause paint damage. It is a little harder to use than replaceable blade-type tools.

Replaceable Blade Scrapers: These are sometimes called “inline” utility knifes. These use the action of a scraper and the replaceable blades like a utility knife. They are medium-priced. The blades can be expensive in comparison to utility blades but they can be sharpened and reused. Multiple blade widths allow for use on any sized pinchweld.

Pinchweld Prep Tools: These tools are specifically designed for automotive glass installation and they vary in style and use. They can be expensive, but they have protections built in to reduce damage to the vehicle and usually provide a short learning curve.

There are technicians getting excellent results with all of these tools. It is worthwhile to take the time to figure out what works best for you. Remember, the key is to get a smooth, damage-free removal of the existing bead, leaving the virgin surface for the proper bonding of your new urethane.